Mumbai is an extremely dense city. Almost 12 million people
cram in less than 603 sq km. (Some perspective: Delhi has 11 million living in 1,500
sq km; DC has 618,000 people in 177 sq km). In this extremely dense city, most
surveys estimate 50-60 percent of the population live in slums. Slums are makeshift
communities, almost always on illegally squatted land, for urban dwellers who
cannot afford legal housing. The conditions are squalid and lack most essential
public infrastructure. The open sewage system and inescapable trash make the
smell unbearable in the heat. Single-room homes that could house up to 10
people are commonly sheltered under blue tarps and corrugated irons. There are
slums of different sizes, populations, and degree of squalor scattered
throughout Mumbai. Dharavi, which we will visit on Friday, was the largest in
Asia (apparently it’s now surpassed by the Karachi slum in Pakistan).
Here’s the catch: since slums are established on trespassed
land, the government cannot officially provide services like trash pickup and
medical care. That’s where NGOs come in to fill the gap.
Our first NGO visit was in the
AmeriCares India office in
Andheri. AmeriCares is a US-based nonprofit organization that provides medical
relief during emergency disaster situations, global medical assistance, and
free care. AmeriCares India in Mumbai currently sets up mobile clinics every 15
days in slum areas. Everyone was impressed with AmeriCares’ advanced use of
technology to help it serve patients. The organization has adopted biometric
tools to track patient visits and are about to launch a cloud-based electronic
medical record system called Easy Clinic. That’s more than I can say about many
US practices!
Our task for the day was to map the number of homes in areas
of the Chandilivi slum AmeriCares is planning to expand into. Once they have an
idea of the landscape, staff will go back to further investigate the makeup of
individual households. This allows them to identify at-risk patients such as
malnourished kids and pregnant women. Eva, Vidisha, and I were assigned an area
near a high school. We were accompanied with AmeriCares Medical Director, Dr.
Purvish Parikh, and several other staff. Dr. Parikh is a world-class oncologist
who was most recently the chief of oncology at Tata Memorial in Mumbai. You
would think someone like him would be satisfied with their accomplishments.
Nope. When Dr. Parikh turned 50, he retired from hospital care to pursue a new
avenue of influencing community-level change. Dr. Parikh’s humor and easygoing
demeanor carried us through our first (nervous) walk through a slum. As it
happened, this trek was surprisingly relaxing. It wasn’t the chaos I expected. The
neighborhood was quiet and the residents were friendly. We spent the afternoon
learning mapping techniques, taking pictures, and trying to imagine what it
must be like living here.
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